Elsie Phelan

‘It’s a neutral thing’ is a performance textile fashion collection, digitally produced to highlight the gender divide of the 1950s.



The United Nations states Gender Equality is on its list of Sustainable Goals, ‘Gender equality is not only a fundamental human right but a necessary foundation for a peaceful, prosperous and sustainable world’.



Framing the 1950s in today’s light helps us question whether we are right to treat the glamour, colour and the upbeat frivolousness of the era as vintage nostalgia or a poor representation of equality.



Gender inspired motifs throughout the collection, supplying primary and visual research developed into digital embroidery, jacquard weave and digital print.



Garment inspiration comes from ‘50s menswear, specifically tailoring. Historically suits were a symbol of power and hierarchy and were predominately worn by men. ‘It’s a neutral thing’ looks at the relationship between gender, societal changes and tailoring. Within the collection, adjustable binding is utilised to transform the shape of the wearer, giving the option of feminine or a masculine silhouette.



The textile collection is based on a nude, neutral colourway, referencing skin tones and underpinning a genderless palette. The research digitally explores the differences in neutral tone capacity and blends over materials such as silk, cotton and wool.



As a vital part of the performance, additional colourways are projected onto the neutral collection, allowing the wearer to choose either or both feminine/masculine representations. The projected colourways are directly influenced by 1950s colour trends researched via articles, popular culture and art movements.



The technical demands in creating a genderless collection have challenged and made me a versatile, productive and creative designer.



‘It’s a neutral thing’ aims to show genderless clothing as the future of fashion. To showcase designs that celebrate all genders and blur the lines between feminine and masculine