Rachel Allen

‘Nouveau mysticism’ is a luxury womenswear collection which entices an escape from the realities of everyday life and empowers the wearer. In a world where the future is often uncertain, challenging and frightening, humans often seek to achieve knowledge and reassurance about events and situations beyond their control. The garments will allow the wearer to surrender to the Tarot Cards’ mysticism, thus allowing them to reconnect with nature, the spiritual realm, and their inner confidence which will allow them to cope with the often harsh realities of life. 



My own coping mechanisms for experiences of uncertainty are similarly grounded in nature, with it providing a refuge of escapism. This led me to research the Art Nouveau movement and style, which is prominent for its celebration of natural lines and forms. This resulted in the discovery of the unique, subversive and free-thinking Pamela Colman-Smith as the muse for my collection.



Colman Smith was a mystical woman known to many of her friends as ‘Pixie’. She was a talented artist during the Art Nouveau period, with one of her most recognised works being her contribution to a Tarot deck commissioned by Arthur Edward Waite, a poet and mystic of the era. British society was experiencing significant change in attitudes towards women and particularly women’s rights. As a result of this, Colman-Smith became involved in this movement by contributing illustrative propaganda as part of the Suffrage Atelier.



This collection, therefore, explores the mysticisms of Art Nouveau through the study of Pamela Colman-Smith’s life and the practice and illustrations of the Rider-Waite Tarot Deck. It aims to achieve an image and feeling of escapism from the realities and hardships of this world, with a surrender to fate and fortune as well as celebrating and empowering women.



The main techniques used to achieve this collection include ornate hand embroidery and embellishment, delicate laser fabric cuts, hand-manipulated lace knitting, sublimation and silk dying, and digital print creation.